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TT 515 
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HOW TO 

CUT, FIT, AND FINISH 

A DRESS. 



BY 



Mdme.v LOFVALL, 

PRACTICAL TEACHER OF DRESSMAKING, 



*-^^3#^^^ 



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BOSTON: 

ALFRED MUDGE & SON, PRINTERS, 

No. 24 Franklin Street. 

1892. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892, 

By Fkeu'k S. McGregor, 
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



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The Rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved. 



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DRESSMAKING. 



JUST PUBLISHED: How to CUT, FIT, and FINISH A DRESS. 

(No Chart required.) 

By MADAME LOFVALL, of London, the eminent teacher of high- 
class millinery, dressmaking, French model ciittine and fitting by mail; upon 
receipt of price, 50 cents. 



FRED S. McGregor - - - Jamaica Plain, Mass. 

PAGE 

Front Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice .... 3 

Back Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice .... 4 

Huw to Take the Pattern of a Made Bodice 9 

How to Take the Pattern 10 

How to Take the Pattern of the Back of a Made Bodice . 12 

How to Take the Pattern of a Made Sleeve 13 

How to Cut the Bodice Out 14 

Fitting On and Alterations 18 

Plow to Finish the Bodice 21 

How to Cut and Finish the Sleeves 25 

How to Cut the Skirt ; 28 

How to Make the Skirt 31 

How to Make the Pocket 35 

How to Sew the Waist-band On 36 



FACE 

Dress Trimming, Kilting -38 

Single Box Pleat 39 

Double Box Pleat 40 

How to Make a Gathered Flounce 40 

Puffings 42 

Feather Ruche 44 

Fluted Ruche . . . . ' 46 

Fluted Flounce 46 

Gathered Ruche 47 

Rolled or French Hem 47 

Crossway Bands 49 

Piped Buttonholes 50 

Remarks on Dress Bodices, etc 51 

Remaking Old Dresses 51 

Dress Goods and Lining, What to Use 52 

Tall Ladies 58 

Medium-sized Ladies 58 

Remarks on Sleeves 59 

How to Make Up a Velvet Cuff 63 

Remarks on Skirts 64 




Front Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice. 

From neck to waist-line i-i 

Length of body from shoulder seam at neck to depth 

required for basque ...... 2-2 

Width of shoulders from shoulder seam to shoulder 

seam 3-3 

Width of chest across from armhole to armhole . . 4-4 

Bust right round, close up under arms .... 5-5 

Waist right round 6-6 

Length under arm from armhole to waist-line . . 7-7 

Hips right round (allow for improver) . . . . 8 8 

Depth of shoulder ....... 9-9 

Neck right round lo-io 

Armhole ii-n 




Back Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodi 
From neck band to waist-line 
Width of shoulders 
Across from armhole seams . 
Back line for bust measure . 
Back line for waist measure . 
Back line for hip measure 

Sleeve Measurement. 
From projecting bone at top of shoulder to elbow point 
Round sleeve 6 inches down from armhole 
Round sleeve at elbow point . 
Round wrist ...... 

Length of outside seam 
Length of inside seam . 



ce. 




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INTRODUCTION. 



This book is published at the earnest request 
of many of my former pupils, and I gladly send 
*• How to Cut, Fit, and Finish a Dress "forth 
with the sincere wish that each reader will give 
the lessons a fair trial in re-making old dresses 
as well as new ; and I have every confidence in 
saying that, by careful attention to the instruc- 
tions given in this book, no amateur dressmaker 
need be afraid of success ; -and, as dressmaking 
is about the most profitable of all fancy work to 
which a young lady (however good her social 
position) can devote her leisure hours, I strongly 
advise every mother with a family of daughters 
to improve herself in the "Art of Dressmaking ; " 
and, as soon as each of her daughters can use the 
needle, to teach them how to make a little frock 
(not a doll's frock, but a useful garment to fit a 
child). 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

Thirst teach your little daughter to make the 
waist, then the pretty puff sleeves ; and, after 
they are set in the armholes, teach her how to 
make the skirt and sew it on to the waist- 
band. 

Please do not put forward the plea, " My little 
girl is too young." Not so ; they are never too 
young to learn to work for themselves or younger 
sisters ; and the little girls of the present day 
are not less clever than those of a hundred years 
ago ; but to hear the story our grandmother tells 
of the beautiful things which her mother and 
herself could make in their younger days, must 
make some of our *' wee " misses feel very small ; 
the grandmother should say whether her mother 
and herself were taught to make all the wonder- 
ful things of the story. 

I have seen a child's dress cut out and beau- 
tifully finished by a little girl between the age 
of ten and twelve years ; and when I was tak- 
ing my second course of lessons twenty-four 
years ago, I well remember one of the pupils 
( since dead) commencing the business of dress- 
making, she being at that time in her fourteenth 
year. I fancy I hear some reader say " How 
could they do these things when so young ? 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

Simply because they had been taught the 
business by a patient teacher. 

Seeing that dressmaking is not so difficult to 
learn as some of the fancy work taught in. our 
schools, I would ask, Why should a child be 
taught fancy work, and not the most useful of 
all sewed work, namely, how to make her own 
dresses ? 1 do not mean that children should 
be taught fashionable dressmaking, but that 
they should learn to make a useful dress for 
home or school wear, without any trimmings ; 
and, in regard to the sewing, etc., to be finished 
in first-class style. In the first place, teach them 
to make a new dress, then let them learn to 
re-make old ones for themselves or younger 
sisters, making it a rule for them to work at the 
dress one hour each day regiclarly, from Monday 
to Saturday. 

This will teach them to be systematic, and 
they will grow up to be useful needlewomen and 
a credit to their parents, 

J. H. LOFVALL. 



DRbSSMAKlNG 



HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN OF A MADE 
BODICE. 

Use white leno, or white tissue paper, and, 
remember, no turnings are to be allowed on any 
seam but what is taken up in the breast-darts or 
pleats. In taking the pattern of the front, be 
sure that the whole of it is done over the knee 
and left hand only ; never at any time lay it fiat 
on the cutting-board or table. 

Some dressmakers very often, when taking 
the front pattern, lay it over the left knee only, 
with the left hand under the bodice to extend 
the parts above the breast-darts, and with the 
right pinning the paper smoothly down. The 
pattern should be taken from the inside of the 
bodice ; but, seeing the number of seams in the 
present fashionable bodice, a beginner will often 



lO DRESSMAKING. 

find it difficult at first ; in any case, there can 
be no harm in taking the pattern from the out- 
side. 

HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN. 

First take the half of the bodice, the right side 
of it, or whichever side the button holes edge. 

To take the pattern from the inside you must 
tu»-n the bodice inside out ; lay the bodice over 
your knee, and pin the edge of the leno, or paper, 
to the hem where the button holes lie, leaving 
about 2 inches of the leno, or paper, over the 
hem to allow of it being turned in as you please 
when measuring size for bust and waist ; leave 
about 3 inches of the leno, or paper, projecting 
beyond the neck, shoulders, and waist-line. 

If the bodice be pointed back and front, then 
allow the leno, or paper, to go beyond the waist- 
line to the depth you require for the length of 
the basque. 

Next place the left hand under the bodice at 
the first breast-dart or pleat, and with the right 
hand smooth the leno, or paper, down to the 
part where the dart curves in most at the waist- 
line, for it is here that the pleat is deepest. 



DRESSMAKING. II 

Now, with the right hand, pinch up a fold of 
the leno, or paper, and put a pin through it ; 
then move the left hand up to the top of the 
breast-dart until you feel the point with the fore- 
finger, and put a pin through both leno and 
bodice, just above the point {this will keep the 
leno, or papei', whichever is used, in its proper 
place). Be very careful not to take up too much 
leno, so as to cause the seam to go beyond the 
right place. Then crease the edge of this fold 
from the top to where you put in the first pin, 
and pin along between the two pleats, placing 
the pins close by the stitching. When you have 
finished the first pleat, do the second pleat in 
the same way as you did the first. Be particular 
to see that when you pin the leno pleats you do 
not put the pins into the bodice itself. Now pin 
the leno well down on to the bodice, so that the 
breast-darts will not be pulled out of position. 

If the bodice is made with front under-arm 
seam, fold the leno, and pin in the same way as 
you did the breast-darts, attending to the part 
where it is pinched in most at the waist-line ; 
make this seam from 3 to 6 inches down from 
the waist-line {according to fasJiion or figure of 
the lady). 



12 DRESSMAKING. 

Second, lay the bodice over your left knee, 
and, with your left hand under the bodice stretch 
the chest over your fingers, and pin the leno 
across in a straight line to the armhole, keeping 
the pins about i of an inch from the armhole, 
piping cord, or seam. Then move the left hand 
higher up, and smooth the leno up to the neck 
and shoulders, being careful to see that the leno 
is quite smooth about the armhole, neck, and 
shoulder-seams ; place pins close one after the 
other, so that they will come equally distant 
with the sewing of neck-band, armhole, and 
shoulder seams, keeping the pins about ^ of 
an inch inside of the sewing. When you have 
finished the upper part, cut the leno out round 
the armhole, fix the under-arm seam, and cut off 
all turninsfs. The front is now finished. 



HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN OF THE 
BACK OF A MADE BODICE. 

To take the pattern of the back. First pin 
the leno from the neck down to the waist-line, 
then round the neck, shoulder, and armhole ; 
next pin close down by the side-form seam ; 



DRESSMAKING. 1 3 

see that the leno is quite smooth, and allow i^- 
inch to go over when you pin the leno down 
the middle of the back, to admit of the sloping 
of the basque. Now take the pattern of the side- 
form. First see that the leno is cut just to meet 
the piping-cord or seam of the armhole, also 
that the leno is on the straight at the waist-line, 
or your pattern will not set. The bodice pattern 
is now ready for use. 



HOW TO TAKE A PATTERN OF A MADE 
SLEEVE. 

Turn the sleeve inside out, and pass the left 
hand through the shoulder end, and take the 
pattern of the upper half first. To do this, pin 
the leno in a straight line from the shoulder- 
seam to the elbow ; next put pins round the top 
of the sleeve, -J of an inch from the armhole 
seam, leaving about 2 or 3 inches of the leno to 
go over. Now smooth the leno across to the 
bend of the arm, putting pins close down by the 
inside seam ; then smooth the leno downwards, 
and put in pins to keep it from straining at the 
elbow. Then fold the leno back to the outside 



14 DRESSMAKING. 

seam below the elbow, and pin it close round the 
wrist ; turn back the leno in aline with the edge 
of the cuff, and cut off all turnings. 

In taking the pattern of the under part of the 
sleeve, commence at the elbow, pinning the 
paper up toward the top, then down to the wrist, 
and close to the inside seam, finishing in the 
same way as you did with the upper part. If 
you wish the sleeve to fit the arm tightly, you 
must allow for two or three small pleats, or 
gathers, just on the outer seam of the upper half 
of the sleeve only, and where the elbow point 
comes. It is best to form these pleats on the 
leno pattern, and make notches in the under 
half of the sleeve pattern at the elbow point, 
where the pleats will fit in. 



HOW TO CUT THE BODICE OUT. 

Having got the pattern cut out, take the cor- 
rect measurement of the bodice which you have 
taken the leno pattern from ; then place the 
waist lining double on the cutting board or 
table. See that the lining is quite smooth, with 
the selvage edges close together, the folded edge 



DRESSMAKING. I 5 

being nearest to you. Now place your waist 
pattern on the lining with the front to the 
selvage edge and with the shoulder part of the 
pattern towards the left hand top of the cutting- 
board. Allow li inches for the front hem, then 
carefully pin every part of the pattern in position. 
When you have done this, run your tracing- 
wheel close to the edge of the leno pattern as a 
guide to sew by. Then cut out the lining, 
allowing from f to i inch for the shoulder seams, 
i^ inches for the seams under the arms, and not 
quite ^ of an inch for neck and armhole seams. 
Outline the breast-darts or pleats with the 
tracing-wheel, but do not cut them ; the first dart 
should begin from i^ to 2 inches from the front 
hem (according to fashion or figure of the 
lady). 

The second dart should be from J to i^ inches 
from the first dart. Outline the front under- 
arm seam with the tracing-wheel, as you did the 
breast-darts, then trace the seams for the back 
under-arm. Next place the pattern for the 
back of the bodice on the lining ; putting the 
centre of the back to the selvage edge, with 
the neck part to left hand top of cutting-board ; 
allow if of an inch for turnings at the centre of 



l6 DRESSMAKING. 

the back, J to i inch for shoulder seams, ^ an 
inch for the seam to fit side-form, and not quite 
^ of an inch for the neck and armhole seams. 
Now place the pattern for the side-form on the 
lining ; allow } an inch for turnings at the part 
next to the back, li inches for the seams under 
the arm, and not quite i of an inch for the part 
to fit the armhole. Before you trace or cut the 
lining, see that the whole of it is on the straight 
way of the lining at the waist-line, then carefully 
trace and cut each piece out. The lining now 
peing cut out, place it smoothly on the material, 
which is always best cut on the double. 

Put the front hem on the lining to the selvage 
edge ; do the same with the centre of the back — 
unless a pleated basque : in that case see remarks 
p. 59. Then place the side-form pieces, and, 
before cutting out any part, see that the whole 
is perfectly straight at the waist-line. Now cut 
the material close by the edge of the lining. 
When you have done this, place each piece of 
the material with the right side face down on the 
cutting-board, and carefully pin each piece of 
lining on to the corresponding piece of material, 
tacking it on to the same. While doing this, 
see that both material and lining are quite 



DRESSMAKING. 1/ 

smooth. Be sure to pin and tack in the marks 
made by tracing-wheel ; let the tacking stitches 
be about i an inch in length, not more, and 
very regular (a good dressmaker is always 
known by the tacking and fitting up of a 
bodice). After you have finished tacking the 
waist, fix the front hem, also pin the breast- 
darts together, then do the same with front 
under-arm seams, and tack them firmly with 
No. 30 or 40 soft white tacking cotton. Now 
pin the seam for the centre of the back together, 
and tack it down, then place the side-form 
pieces and tack them together ; when you have 
done this, lay the back and fronts of the bodice 
flat on the cutting-board or table, and with your 
inch measure see that the back and fronts 
correspond with your bust and waist measure- 
ment. Next join the bodice on the shoulders, 
pinning the front parts on to the back, and 
allowing the back part of the shoulder to set 
easy on the front. (The front part of the 
shoulder is always best stretched a little on to 
the back). Attention to this will prevent 
wrinkles on the front part of the shoulder. 
When you have tacked the shoulder seams, fix 
the back under-arm scams, and tack them 



1 8 DRESSMAKING. 



together. The bodice will now be ready for 
fitting on, stitching, etc. 



FITTING ON AND ALTERATIONS. 

If the bodice from which you have taken the 
pattern be a good fitting one, and you have taken 
it correctly, it will not need to be altered or fitted 
on, unless the lady may have become stouter 
or more slender since the bodice was made ; 
in that case, you will have to fit it on. When 
you put the bodice on the figure to be fitted, fix 
a pin at the waist-line, back and front, and pin 
the bodice firmly down to the underdress or 
corset, to keep it in place while you are fitting. 
After you have got the waist and the parts 
round the hips to fit, attend to the seams on the 
shoulders, and should you find, when fitting the 
bodice, that the waist is too tight, let it out a 
little at the breast-darts, also at the back under- 
arm seams (although much depends on. the figure 
of the lady). Sometimes the alteration can be 
made by letting out a little of the front hem at 
the waist-line ; in that case you might have to 
bring the breast-darts more forward. 



DRESSMAKING. IQ 

If the size of the bust is to remain the same, 
be careful not to let out more than necessary, 
nor too high up in the breast-dart seams. If you 
find that the bodice is too tight round the bust, 
you can, almost in all cases, let the darts out up 
to each point ; you can also allow a little out at 
the front hem, sloping it down from the neck to 
the bust, thence to the waist-line. 

In some figures the line from the bust to waist 
is almost straight, and in others just the reverse, 
so, in all cases, you must use your own judgment 
when fitting on Should the bodice be too tight 
across the back, you can ease it by letting out a 
little at the centre seam, or if too wide, take a 
little in at the center of the back. 

The shoulder seams for a slender figure must 
be more aslant than those for a stout figure ; and, 
again, a slender figure requires the back at the 
neck to be higher, and the curve at the neck in 
front of the bodice to be rounded out a little 
deeper than the neck curve for a stout figure. 

Be careful not to slope the shoulder seams too 
much, as this is often the cause of creases at the 
top of the back. 

Sometimes creases appear both across the top 
of the back, and also cominir from the shoulder 



20 DRESSMAKING. 

towards the chest and armhole at the front of 
the bodice. These are often caused by the 
shoulder seams being drawn too much towards 
the front at the neck, and too far back at the 
armhole. Again, it can be just the opposite; 
that is, the seams are too far back at the neck, 
and brought forward too much at the armhole, 
and sometimes the shoulder seams are not 
sufficiently sloped, and in some cases they are 
sloped too much. 

Should you meet with any of these difficulties 
when fittmg on, your best plan would be to un- 
pick the shoulder seams and make them to come 
more or less on the top of the shoulder. 

On no account use scissors when fitting on. 

Some dressmakers adopt the tailors' plan, and 
mark with chalk the line where the neck-band 
will come, also where the sleeves will fit in the 
armhole ; but, as this plan will not do in the case 
of some materials, it is best to put in pins to 
mark the line where the neck-band is to be 
sewn on. 

Do the same for the armhole seams, and 
when you take the bodice off the figure, put a 
tacking close by the pins ; but before you take 
the bodice off the ficfure, fit the right arm sleeve 



DRESSMAKING. 21 

on, then you will be able to judge if the sleeves 
need any alteration. 

Be careful to make the sleeves fit at the elbow 
point, and see that the highest point of the 
rounded part at the top of the sleeve comes to 
the highest part of the shoulder, and turn the 
edge in to fit, putting in pins, same as you did 
when making the line for the neck-band ; do 
the same at the wrist, and when you take the 
sleeve off the arm put in a tacking close 
by the pins same as with neck-band and arm- 
hole. 

HOW TO FINISH THE BODICE. 

Having got the waist to fit thoroughly, each 
seam stitched, and the edges neatly bound with 
narrow ribbon, or overcast with fine thread, 
same color as the material, work the button- 
holes on the right-hand side of the bodice; let 
the buttonholes be from I an inch to i inch apart. 
Next press open all seams, except the shoulder 
seams ; then sew Prussian binding, ribbon, or 
tape, about J an inch wide, on to each seam (this is 
the casing for whalebone). First tack the bind- 
ing or ribbon down the centre of each seam, and 
right over the line made by stitching. Begin at 



22 DRESSMAKING. 

the breast darts, and allow the casing to go a 
little beyond the top of each dart ; this part of 
the casing must be doubled over an inch or two, 
and kept loose ; the edges of this doubled part 
must be neatly joined together at both sides 
with fine thread or silk, same color as casing. 
Now, with the same thread, run the edge of 
each casing neatly down, and see that you do 
not take the stitches through on to the lining of 
the bodice itself. (When sewing on binding, 
ribbon, or tape for whalebone casing, be careful 
to allow the binding to set easy on the seams, 
for if it is in the least tight it will cause wrinkles 
at the waist-line ; and see that no casing on any 
seam is carried higher than those on the breast- 
darts, also that the casing is within ^ an inch 
of the mark for turning in at the bottom of the 
basque.) When the whalebone casings are all 
set on, press open the shoulder seams, and pipe 
the armholes (if in fashion). To pipe the arm- 
holes, first cut a piece of the material on the 
cross and about .] an inch wide, then tack a piece 
of piping cord in the centre of this cross-cut 
strip, and tack it round on the marks made for 
armhole seam, which will be now ready for the 
sleeves. 



DRESSMAKING. 2 3 

If the bodice is cut pointed back and front, 
and is intended to be worn untrimmed, it should 
be piped round the edge (if in fashion). 

To do this, first cut a piece of the material 
on the cross, from li to i^ inches wide, tack in 
the piping-cord about i inch from one edge ; 
this will leave about i inch of the cross strip to 
lap over. When you have finished a piece the 
length required, commence to sew it on to the 
right side of the bodice, beginning at the left- 
hand side, keeping the cord about f of an inch 
from the edge, and with the right side of the cross 
strip uppermost, the folded part where the cord 
is being nearest to you. When you have 
finished sewing on the cord, turn the strip over 
on to the wrong side, tacking it down so as to 
show the piping only on the right side of the 
bodice, turn in the raw edge, and hem it neatly 
on to the lining. If you do not like the bodice 
to be edged with a piping cord, you can line it 
up with a cross strip of sarsnet, or material same 
as the dress ; the strip should be about 2 inches 
wide. Before you sew on the strip of sarsnet or 
material, cut a strip of leno on the cross about 
3 inches wide, and tack it round the edge at the 
bottom of the basque ; when you have finished 



24 DRESSMAKING. 

tacking, fold the part marked for turning in, at 
the edge of the basque, over on to the leno, and 
sew the raw edges lightly down on to the leno 
and lining only ; now insert the whalebone into 
the casing on each seam, and fix the bone in 
place (see remarks, p. 56). Then run one edge 
of the sarsnet on to the folded part, about ^ 
inch from the bottom of the basque, and, when 
sewing the opposite side of the sarsnet down on 
to the lining, be careful not to take the stitches 
through on the right side of the bodice. 

Next sew on the buttons (see p. 56), being 
careful to see that they are placed exactly 
opposite to the buttonholes. Now finish the 
neck : first cut a piece of the material about 
li inches wide, or to the depth required (on the 
bias, which is best, but if preferred it can be 
made on the straight way of the material), and 
allow ^ of an inch turnings over the size for length 
and width of neckband. When you have cut 
the neckband, place it on a piece of fine book 
muslin or leno, and tack it lightly down with 
fine cotton. After you have cut and shaped a 
piece of sarsnet for lining neckband, place the 
centre of the neckband to the top of the centre 
seam, at the back of the bodice, then carefully 



DRESSMAKING. 25 

pin the neckband towards the front at either 
side ; now tack it firmly down, and sew it neatly 
with the muslin nearest to you, turn in the 
edges, and line with the sarsnet. Should you 
wish the neckband to be stitched on the outside 
with the sewing machine, turn in ^ of an inch at 
the bottom of the band, and pin it from the centre 
of the back to the front of the bodice at both 
sides, tacking it down close to the edge on the 
outside of the band ; do the top in the same 
way, and line the inside of the band with ribbon 
or a strip of silk. Now stitch on the outside of 
the neckband close to the edge at the bottom, 
then along the top, with silk thread same color 
as the material. Next work a silk loop on the 
left-hand side of the neckband, and place a hook 
to match on the right-hand side; do the same 
at the bottom of the waist if it is required. 

HOW TO CUT AND FINISH THE SLEEVES. 
Take the lining left over after cutting out the 
bodice, and lay it on the cutting-board or table ; 
place the leno or paper pattern of the sleeves 
on the lining and pin it carefully in position, 
taking care that the lining is on the straight 
above the elbow. When you have done this, 



26 DRESSMAKING. 

run your tracing wheel close to the edge of the 
pattern, as a guide to sew by, then cut the lining 
out ; allow ^ an inch on each side for turnings, 
about i of an inch at the top of the sleeve, and 
I inch at the wrist. Next, cut the material to 
match. After this is done, place each piece of 
material, right side down, on the cutting-board, 
with the top of the sleeve to the left hand top 
of cutting-board ; then lay the lining already cut 
out for the sleeves on each piece of material to 
match, pin the lining on material in the marks 
made by tracing-wheel, and allow the lining to 
set easy on the material. Now tack on the 
lining in the marks made by tracing-wheel, and 
when you have finished tacking the upper and 
under parts, pin the upper parts on to the under 
parts in marks made by tracing-wheel, leaving 
all turnings to go over at the wrist. See that 
each sleeve sets well, and that the elbow points 
meet ; then tack the seams by the tracing-marks 
on the lining, to keep them in place while 
stitching, and sew them down from the top by 
hand or sewing machine, being particular to see 
that the stitches are even and not too tight. 
When you have stitched both sleeves, cut off 
the turnings on each side, neatly overcast and 



DRESSMAKING. 2/ 

press open each seam ; now cut off the turnings 
at the wrist, leaving | of an inch to turn on to 
the muslin or leno. Next line the inside of the 
wrist, tack a piece of muslin or leno, about 2 
inches wide, around the inside of the wrist, and 
turn the f of an inch left for that purpose over on 
to the muslin, tacking it firmly down and lining 
with ribbon or sarsnet about i^ inches wide, or 
if you have a piece of good silk, same color as 
the dress material, which is best cut on the bias, 
you will find that it will wear much better than 
the ribbon. Commence to sew the silk lining or 
ribbon at the under part of the sleeve, and 
about one inch from the inner seam. Be careful 
not to strain the silk, but ease it a little when 
you get near the outer seam, and when you 
come to the inner seam again, fasten off. Then 
turn the silk down on to the sleeve lining, and 
tack it firmly round the edge of the wrist, keep- 
ing the silk well under, so that it will not show 
on the outside. When you have tacked the 
silk in place, hem it down on to the lining, and 
see that you do not show the stitches on the 
right side of the sleeve. Now close the join in 
the silk lining (which will be i inch from the 
seam in the sleeve ) with slip stitches. The 



28 DRESSMAKING. 

sleeves will now be ready to fit into the arm- 
holes of the bodice, and, when you pin them in, 
see that they set easy on the tops, from the 
shoulder seam towards the front, and sew them 
in by hand, with the sleeve next to you. 

If no cording is put around the armhole, you 
must be very careful when sewing the sleeves 
in ; the stitches should be firm, and done with 
silk or linen thread. After both sleeves are 
stitched into the armholes, all turnings must be 
cut off, leaving about the third part of an inch, 
which should be neatly overcast or bound with 
narrow silk ribbon, the exact width, so that the 
armhole will look neat when finished. 

HOW TO CUT THE SKIRT. 

First take the length of the front, from the 
waist-line to the instep, then take the length of 
the side and also of the back from the waist-line 
to the length required. 

Next place the material on the cutting-board 
or table ; and cutout the front breadth, allowing 
about I inch for turnings at the bottom, and 
12- inches for turnings at the top. The front 
breadth should measure from 22 to 30 inches at 



DRESSMAKING. 2g 

the bottom, and at the top, after allowing for 
darts, from lo to 15 inches (according to the 
figure of the lady). After you have cut the 
front breadth, pin the two selvage edges 
together the wrong side out, and lay the breadth 
on the cutting-board or table, with the selvage 
edges nearest to you. When you have done this, 
take your bodice pattern and place the edge at 
the waist-line, where the buttonholes lie, even 
with the centre at the top of the front breadth, 
which is lying double on the cutting-board or 
table. Now put a pin in the front breadth, just 
opposite to the first or second breast-dart seam ; 
then place your left hand down on the bodice, 
right over the two breast-darts to keep them in 
place, and with your right hand pinch up a fold 
in the front breadth, just opposite to where the 
two breast-darts come in the bodice, and pin the 
darts in the front breadth down from 4 to 6 
inches (according to the figure of the lady). 
Then move your left hand along to the front 
under-arm seam, and put a pin (or a chalk mark 
is better) in the front breadth right opposite to 
the front under-arm seam, remembering that it 
is from this pin, or chalk mark, you will com- 
mence to slope the sides of the front breadth. 



30 



DRESSMAKING. 



Next, move the bodice away, and with chalk, 
tacking cotton, or tracing-wheel, outline the 
darts in the front breadth, but do not cut them. 
After you have done this, take your inch 
measure along the bottom of the breadth, and 
put in a pin, or mark with chalk the number of 
inches for the width at the bottom. Then trace 
a sloped line, from the chalk mark at the top to 
the chalk mark at the bottom of the breadth. 
Before you cut the sloped piece off the front 
breadth, be sure that the selvage edges are 
pinned close together. When the sloped partis 
cut off, cut a piece out in a rounded shape about 
f of an inch deep in the middle, at the top of 
the breadth. Now take your inch measure over 
every part of the breadth, and see that it corre- 
sponds with your measurement. Next cut out 
the two first gores, then the back breadth, which, 
like the front, must be without a seam in the 
centre. 

Wfeen cutting the gores, you must allow i or 
2 inches more in length than was allowed for 
the front width. If the material be 24 inches 
wide, the gore will measure 18 inches at the 
bottom and 6 at the top ; first chalk a mark for 
number of inches at the top and bottom of the 



DRESSMAKING. 3 1 

breadth you intend to gore. Then trace a 
sloped line from the mark at the top to the 
mark at the bottom, and cut the gore carefully 
out by the sloped line just traced. When you 
have done this, pin the two sloped edges together 
and pinch up a fold about i inch deep at the top 
of the gore, exactly opposite to where the back 
under-arm seam comes at the waist-line in the 
bodice. Now pin or trace the darts in the gores 
(same as you did the front-breadth darts). The 
first gores are now finished. If you wish for 
second gores, trace and cut them in the same 
way as you did the first, only allowing i or 2 
inches more for length. The back breadth must 
measure from 24 to 30 inches vvide, according 
to fashion or figure of the lady. 

HOW TO MAKE THE SKIRT. 

First pin and tack the darts at the top of the 
front breadth and gores ; then take the front 
breadth and lay it on the cutting-board or table. 
Now take the first gores, and pin them on 
either side of the front breadth ; allow all turnings 
to go over at the top. Be careful to see that 
the gored part is not in the least stretched. 



32 DRESSMAKING. 

When you have finished pinning the gores to 
the front breadth, tack them together a good ^ 
inch in from the edge, keeping the gored part 
next to you. 

The tacking must be very regular and not 
more than i an inch in length, as they are the 
guide to stitch by. Now pin and tack the back 
breadth to the gored side of the first gore, or 
second, if there should be two at either side of 
the front breadth. 

Next stitch all seams from top to bottom, 
with the gored sides uppermost, leaving un- 
stitched about i a yard of the seam nearest to 
the back on the left hand side of the skirt, for 
the vent or placket-hole. (If you intend to trim 
the skirt round the bottom, then you would 
require to leave the seam nearest to the back 
width open all the way down until you are 
ready to band the skirt.) The vent or placket- 
hole must be neatly faced with a piece of ribbon 
on the right hand side, and with a piece of 
material same as the dress, make a false hem on 
the left hand side. Then overcast the edges of 
each gore (this must be done with very fine 
thread, and the stitches not too close or in the 
least tight ), but very often they are overcast 



DRESSMAKING. 33 

before the skirt is joined together. Now press 
open each seam on a wooden roller ( to be had 
at the drapers) with a piece of flannel sewed 
firmly round it. Place the roller underneath the 
seams on the right side of the skirt, and press 
them open on the wrong side. Great care must 
be taken, while doing this, so that the iron does 
not press on the turnings. Having pressed each 
seam open, lay the skirt on the cutting-board or 
table, and pin the seams, top and bottom of 
either side together, and be careful you do not 
stretch them. For this reason, it is best that all 
gored skirts be pinned on the cutting-board or 
table, and not held up by two persons, for if the 
seams of a gored skirt are in the least stretched 
it will never look well, unless unpicked, tacked, 
stitched, and pressed over again, but this trouble 
will be saved by a little attention when first 
done. When you have got all the seams of the 
skirt pinned face to face, top and bottom, cut off 
all turnings at the bottom, leaving about i inch 
to turn in when you line it up. If the lining 
is much gored, you will have to make the lining 
to fit before sewing any part of it on the skirt. 

On no account put pleats in the lining of a 
skirt bottom. The best plan is to cut the 



34 



DRESSMAKING. 



lining when you are cutting out the skirt, then 
you will be able to cut it the exact shape. 
When this is done, stitch and press open each 
seam, and turn J an inch down at the top edge 
of the lining with a neat tacking of i inch in 
length, and press it on the wrong side. Then 
place the right side of the skirt against the right 
side of the lining, allow the lining to go a little 
beyond the edge of the skirt, and with the skirt 
uppermost, sew the two together about ^ an inch 
from the edge. Next turn the lining over on to 
the inside of the skirt, and tack it neatly round 
the edge to keep it in place. Then pin and 
hem down the top edge of the lining. Should 
you wish to trim the skirt, it is best to place 
book muslin or lenoon the inside, to the depth 
you intend the trimming to go. A good plan is 
to leave the seam next to the back breadth at 
the left hand side open, until the skirt is fully 
trimmed. 

It is always best to cut the muslin or leno 
when you cut the material for the skirt. The 
muslin must not be joined, but tacked in with 
an outer lining of alpaca which should be about 
8 inches deep. Run the skirt on to the alpaca 
and muslin together, then turn the alpaca over 



DRESSMAKING. 35 

on to the inside, tacking and hemming it down 
on to the muslin. Now put the braid on. The 
best way is to fold the edges of the braid 
together, and run or hem it round the bottom 
of the skirt, which, when finished, will look like 
a cording on the right side. Another way is to 
lay the braid between the skirt and lining, and 
run the three together. Some simply bind the 
dress bottom, stitching the braid down with the 
sewing machine. After you have put the braid 
on, make the pocket and sew it in the skirt. 

Hozv to make the pocket. — First cut it out in 
lining, not less than 14 inches long, and when 
doubled it should measure about 8 inches across 
at the widest part. Cut the pocket in a rounded 
shape at the bottom, then put a chalk mark 
about 8 inches up from the deepest part of this 
rounded shape, and commence to slope from this 
chalk mark up to the top of the pocket, leaving 
it about 3 inches wide. Next face each piece 
with a straight-cut strip of the dress material. 
Sew these strips on the part which will come to 
the inside of the pocket. The pocket can be 
either stitghed round on the outside, and neatly 
overcast, or turned inside out and run close to 
the ed2:e, then turned out and stitched with the 



36 DRESSMAKING. 

sewing-machine, not quite ^ of an inch from the 
edge (this is the best way, as it encloses the raw 
edge). When the pocket is finished sew it into 
the seam in the skirt that comes opposite to the 
front or back under-arm seam in the bodice, 
and about lO inches down from the waist-Hne 
(according to the figure of the lady). Sew the 
pocket in by hand, keeping it next to you, then 
cut off all turnings, neatly overcast, and finish 
with a piece of tape from the waist-band to the 
top of the pocket. Sew one end of the tape 
firmly on to the top of the pocket, and with a 
few firm stitches sew the other end on to the 
waist-band in a straight line up from the pocket. 
This tape is to prevent the weight of the pocket 
from straining the seam in the skirt, which is 
now ready for the waist-band. 

To sew the waist-band on. — First turn down the 
skirt at the top to the length you require. This 
is best done on the cutting-board or table, pinning 
the seams face to face, same as you did when you 
cut the turnings off the bottom of the skirt (before 
running in the lining). When you have got all 
seams to face, top and bottom, with your inch 
measure take the length, allowing all turnings to 
go over to the wrong side at the top of the skirt. 



DRESSMAKING. 3/ 

Now measure the length for your waist-band, 
and be sure to allow a little over the size of the 
waist for the false hem at the vent or placket- 
hole. Sew the ends of the waist-band neatly 
down, and pin the skirt and waist-band together 
face to face on the right side ; this will bring the 
wrong side of the waist-band nearest to you. 
Then sew the two firmly together with linen thread 
The back breadth must be gathered or pleated 
(according to fashion) ; the stitches for the gathers 
should be from ^ to i inch long on the right side, 
and very small on the wrong side of the skirt. 

I have always found that the gathers set best 
when this plan is adopted, although I have seen 
some dressmakers make the gathers with the 
long stitches on the wrong side. When you 
have finished the gathers, draw the thread up 
and sew the band on to the edge, taking up one 
fold of the gathers at a time. Then sew over 
the opposite side to keep the gathers in place. 

Now sew two medium-sized hooks on to the 
end of the band, from the right hand side, then 
sew one large patent v/aist-band eye on the end 
of the band at the left hand side. Next, take 
your inch measure along the inside of the band, 
from the eye at the end of the left hand side, 



38 DRESSMAKING. 

and put a mark on the band at the number of 
inches allowed for size of the waist ; sew a patent 
waist-band hook on this mark to correspond 
with the eye on the left side. Now put the 
hook through the eye, you will then see the 
place on which to set two medium-sized eyes 
to match the hooks on the end of the right hand 
side of the waist-band. When you have finished 
sewing the hooks and eyes on to the waist-band, 
turn the skirt inside out, and sew three or more 
pieces of tape, or elastic, on the seams at either 
side of the back breadth to keep the fullness at the 
back of the skirt in its right place. Then care- 
fully draw out the whole of the tackings. The 
skirt will now be finished. 



DRESS TRIMMINGS — KILTING. 

Kilting is a flat pleat like a Scotch kilt, each 
pleat taking under as much as is seen on the 
top ; viz. if the pleat is i J inches wide on the 
outside, it must have a depth of i J inches on the 
inside. Kilting always looks best when cut on 
the selvage way of the material, but it all 
depends on the fashion of the day. After the 
kilting is all pleated up it must be pressed on 



DRESSMAKING. 39 

the wrong side with a hot iron ; then sew on a 
broad linen tape, about 6 inches up from the 
bottom edge, and another tape 6 inches up from 
the first, and so on to within 6 inches from the 
top of the kilt. 

For a skirt 2^ yards wide you will require a 
strip about 7 yards in length. Sometimes dress- 
makers allow more or less (according to fashion), 
and again some materials do not need the pleats 
so full or close to keep them in shape. Thin 
silks, satins and other thin goods require to be 
lined with fine leno before being kilted. 

SINGLE BOX PLEAT. 

Single box pleats are all made from ^ to U 
inches upwards in width, according to the fashion 
of the day. The single box pleat is like the 
Scotch kilt, only one kilt pleat goes to the right, 
and one to the left ; the pleats must just meet 
at the back, but not wrap over. A skirt 2J 
yards wide will require a strip not less than 7 or 
8- yards long. 

The single box pleat can be made in almost 
any material, from a depth of 3 inches. 



40 DRESSMAKING. 

DOUBLE BOX PLEAT. 

Double box pleat is just like the single box 
pleat, only one is half an inch more or less than 
the other, and the small pleat is set upon the 
under one, which allows the sides of the under 
pleat to be seen. Begin by making one Scotch 
kilt pleat, then a smaller one upon that, both to 
the right side. Then make a kilt at the opposite, 
or left side, \i inches (or according to fashion) 
from the edge of the right side pleat ; this will 
finish the upper pleat. Now make another kilt 
to come under this last one, which will be turned 
to the left side also ; this will form the double 
box pleat. Make the edges of the upper pleat 
to meet on the wrong side ; the under pleats 
need not come to the centre, as they must 
project a little beyond each side of the top pleat 
on the right side. Double box pleats always 
look best when made up in material of a good 
quality, and can be made from a depth of 6 
inches upwards, and in width from i inch. 

HOW TO MAKE A GATHERED FLOUNCE. 

First cut the breadths on the cross ( or accord- 
ing to fashion ), and be sure to leave turnings for 



DRESSMAKING. 4I 

the hem, also turnings if you wish one flounce 
to lap over the other. 

If the material be 24 inches wide, allow 10 or 
12 inches to each breadth for the gathers. 
Sometimes more or less is allowed, but this 
depends on the thickness of the material. After 
the breadths are ail cut, join and press open each 
seam, then hem or line it along the bottom. 
When you have finished the hem, halve and 
quarter the flounce, which is done as follows : — 
First put a thread in the centre of one of the 
breadths, and make this breadth come to the 
front breadth of the skirt. Next, lay the flounce 
on the cutting board or table, and fold it in four, 
then put in a thread mark at each of the folds 
(same as was don*e for centre of the front breadth) . 
Halve and quarter the skirt in the same way, 
beginning at the centre of the front breadth, 
folding the skirt in four, same as you did the 
flounce, putting in a thread mark at each fold. 
Then take a strong but fine thread, the same 
color as the dress material, and let it be a 
little longer than the length of one quarter 
length on the skirt, and gather the flounce about 
i of an inch from the top edge. As you finish 
the running of each quarter, put in a pin and 



42 DRESSMAKING. 

twist the thread firmly round it to keep the 
gathers \n place. After you have finished the 
gathers for each quarter, lay the front breadth of 
the skirt, right side uppermost, on the skirt- 
board or table, and place the front breadth of 
the flounce, with the thread mark in centre, on 
the mark at centre of front breadth in the skirt. 
Pin the two quarters at each side of the front, 
first regulating the fulness with a pin, and 
taking care that each quarter-mark meets. 
Next, pin the two remaining quarters to the 
back part, and run or stitch the flounce on to 
the skirt, close to the running thread in the 
gathers. 

PUFFINGS. 

If you wish to trim the skirt with a number 
of puffings one above the other, cut the material 
on the cross to the depth required, and allow 
the same number of inches for fulness as for a 
gathered flounce (or according to fashion). 

If the material is very thin, you can cut the 
breadths on the straight (that is from selvage to 
selvage). When you have cut all the breadths 
for the puffings, join and press open each seam, 
and, before you commence the running for the 



DRESSMAKING. 43 

gathers, halve and quarter the strips (accorduig 
to the directions given for a gathered flounce, 
remembering to put in a pin or thread mark at 
each quarter), then halve and quarter the skirt, 
and put a tagking round just where you wish to 
commence to sew on the edge of the first puffing. 

If the skirt is in the least gored, you must 
slope the breadths for the puffings when you cut 
them. You will find this plan much better than 
that of some dressmakers, who cut each puff 
singly when trimming a gored skirt with a 
number of puffings. 

A good way is to leave the seam nearest to 
the back breadth in the skirt unstitched, and set 
on all the puffings one by one, as you finish 
running them. Or you can adopt the following 
plan : — first join the breadths for the puffing as 
far up as the second running, which will com- 
mence some inches from the first ; viz. if you 
wish the puff to be 4 inches deep, you must join 
the breadth up to 4^ inches, and commence the 
first running ^ inch from the edge, and the 
second running (which will form the first puff) 
4 inches from the running at the edge ; and as 
you finish each quarter, put in a pin, and twist 
the thread round it, as in directions given for 



44 DRESSMAKING. 

gathered flounce. Now lay the skirt on the 
cutting-board or table, the front first, placing 
the quarter mark at the edge, where the runnings 
are on the breadths in the strip for puffing, on 
the quarter mark on the front- breadth of the 
skirt. Next pin the two front quarters on to 
the skirt, until you come to the seams in the 
puffing ; then you will be able to take in a little 
at each seam, before you commence the running 
for the next puff, and so on until you have 
finished all the runnings for puffs. Now set the 
puffings on to the skirt, with the right side of 
the puffing against the right side of the skirt. 
The puffing will be uppermost, with the wrong 
side towards you, and with the quarter marks 
to meet (as in directions given for gathered 
flounce). Pin each quarter on to the tacking 
made in the skirt, sewing the puffing down with 
a firm running-stitch, being particular to run 
them all in the same direction, keeping the 
stitches quite even and not too tight. 

FEATHER RUCHE. 

To make feather ruches, first place the material 
on the cutting-board or table, and carefully cut 



DRESSMAKING. 4'5 

from 4 to 6 strips, exactly on the cross, to the 
width required ; then cut the same number of 
strips only ^ an inch narrower than the first. 

Now lay the broad strips one upon the other, 
and tack them firmly together, leaving the 
edges free to admit of them being frayed out, 
which must be done in the contrary direction to 
the main thread in the material (attention to 
this will make the ruche look feather-like when 
finished). Some ruches have two or three laps of 
material, the inner ones being from ^ to |^an inch 
narrower than the outer strips. Remember the 
cross strips must be cut all in one way of the 
material, or the ruches will not look feather-like 
when finished. Tack and fray out the edges of 
the narrow strips in the same way as you did the 
broad ones. When both sets of strips are frayed 
out at each edge, take them apart, join and press 
open each seam, then pleat up each strip in 
small single or double box pleats, pinning or 
tacking each pleat as you make it. After you 
have finished pleating both broad and narrow 
strips, lay the narrow strips upon the broader 
ones, and tack the two firmly together in the 
centre. Then stitch them with the sewing- 
machine close by the tacking stitches ; or, if it 



46 DRESSMAKING. 

be run by hand, the thread should be fine and 
of the same color as the material, the stitches 
neat and regular. Feather ruche is much used 
for trimming outdoor jackets, also evening 
dresses, etc. 

FLUTED RUCHE. 

Fluted ruche is another pretty trimming suit- 
able for evening dresses, and is made up in the 
same way as the feather ruche, only it is always 
made in single box pleats, which are stitched 
down at both sides about i of an inch from the 
edge. Fluted ruche should never be more than 
f to I inch in width, and with both edges pinked 
out. Do not make the pleats more than | an inch 
in width, and stitch them down with silk thread 
to match the color of the material. 

FLUTED FLOUNCE. 

This trimming is made in the same way as 
the fluted ruche, only that one edge is stitched 
down and called the top of the flounce, and the 
bottom edge is lined up with muslin, or finished 
with a row of machine stitching; or, if made of 



DRfiSSMAKING. 47 

silk, the edges can be pinked out ( if pinking be 
in fashion ). Fluted flounce must be pirated 
much fuller than a fluted ruche. Some are 
made with the pleats to overlap each other at 
the back, and others with the pleats to meet back 
and front ; and, again, some at the front are made 
the same distance apart as the pleats are in width- 

GATHERED RUCHE 

Is made with strips of material cut either on 
the cross or width way, from i^ to 2 inches 
wide, and frayed or pinked out at both edges, 
then gathered in the centre of the strip over a 
piping-cord, or simply with a running of silk 
thread. A strip on the cross, cut from material 
24 inches wide, will just allow the necessary 
fulness to trim a width of material 24 inches 
wide. Gathered ruche is a neat finish to the 
top of flounces, or for trimming evening dresses, 
etc. It also looks well made up in black silk 
for trimming the collar and wrists of slight 
mourning dresses. 

ROLLED OR FRENCH HEM 

Is a nice finish to the edge of flounces, etc. 
First cut the number of breadths required for 



45 DRESSMAKING. 

the flounce exactly on the cross, that is, suppos- 
ing you allow i^ inches for turnings; viz., ^ inch 
for the top, and i^ for the rolled hem at the 
bottom. After all the breadths are cut, join 
and press open each seam, lay the flounce wrong 
side down on the cutting-board or table, then 
turn the edge at the bottom i^ inches over on 
to the right side, fold this i^ inches into two; 
this will cause the raw edge to come even with 
the folded part at the bottom of the flounce. 
Now run, with a very fine and even stitch, along 
the raw and folded edges together, and when 
you have finished the running, turn the flounce 
so as to bring the wrong side nearest to you, 
then turn down the folded edge on to the line 
of stitches made by the running just finished, 
and hem the edge of the fold neatly down on to 
the running. A careful worker who can guide 
the sewing-machine, making regular stitches, 
can always run the folded edges together by 
machine. 

I have seen it done in this way, and it looks 
much better and firmer than any done by hand. 
Of course the hemming over to the wrong side 
must be done by hand. 



DRESSMAKING. 49 



CROSSWAY BANDS. 



These can be made of velvet, silk, satin, etc.. 
and should be lined with leno. In cutting thj 
leno be particular to see that it is cut with main 
thread in the same direction as those of the 
velvet or whatever you intend to line. The 
strips of velvet and leno being cut, tack thj 
velvet on to the leno, then turn about f of an inch 
of the velvet at the bottom of the crossband 
over on to the leno, and herring-bone it down. 
When you have done this, arrange the cross- 
bands on the dress, keeping all seams as far 
away from the front breadth of the skirt as 
possible, first taking care that you have a tack- 
ing round the skirt where you intend the cross- 
bands to be sewed on. Lay the raw edge of the 
velvet, with the leno, uppermost, close to the edge 
of the first tacking, and with the bottom edge of 
the crossband towards the top of the skirt, and 
tack the velvet down to keep it in place ; then 
run the crossbands along from right to left with 
a firm and even stitch. Let the running be 
about \ inch from the raw edge of the velvet, 
and as you finish running each crossway band 



50 DRESSMAKING. 

on to the skirt, turn it over and tack it lightly 
down with a very fine thread, the tackings to 
remain until the garment is finisjied. 

PIPED BUTTONHOLES. 

Piped buttonholes are made by cutting a 
buttonhole quite straight, that is, without being 
cut out in a rounded shape at the end nearest to 
the edge at the hem of the garment. First tack 
a strip of leno on the wrong side where you 
intend the buttonholes to be cut, then cut the 
first buttonhole. Next a strip of the material 
(with which you intend to pipe it) on the cross, 
and about i inch wide ; fold this strip in two, 
right side out, and with the raw edges close 
together ; put a fine tacking through to keep the 
edges in place ; now lay these edges close against 
the edge of one side of the slit cut for buttonhole, 
and run them together as near to the edge as 
possible. 

After you have done this, turn the folded 
edge of the strip over on to the wrong side of 
the garment, and sew it neatly down on to the 
stitches just made by the running on the other 
side. When you have finished one side of the 



DRESSMAKING. 5 I 

slit, do the other in the same way, and be 
particular as you come to each end of the slit to 
finish off neatly, and without showing the stitches 
on the right side of the garment. 

REMARKS ON DRESS BODICES, ETC. 

When re-making old dresses, always use new 
lining for the waist and skirt. For colored 
dresses, use soft grey sateen or linen for waist 
lining; although not fashionable, it is much better 
for waist lining than the figured lining so much 
in favor at present. Some readers will be much 
surprised to learn that most of these figured 
linings are nothing more than old-fashioned 
muslin lining, at one time much used for skirts ; 
but it had not, at that time, the ^pretty printed 
patterns which are now seen on the right side ; 
some of these linings are stouter than others, 
according to the price ; but, however good they 
may appear, they are not suitable for anyone of 
limited means ; of course, they are much cheaper 
than silk, sateen, or linen waist lining, but they 
often, when in use, wear out before the material. 
Those who would practice economy in regard to 
waist lining should use soft grey or white 



52 DRESSMAKING. 

holland for merino and other goods of that 
class; for silk and satin dresses use silk twilled 
waist lining, good sateen same color as material 
for dress, or soft white linen. 

Use sateen covered with thin silk or satin to 
line transparent goods, such as grenadine, net, 
etc. For muslin or cambric dresses use soft 
white linen or fine long cloth ; and for printed 
cottons a fine even calico. 

Serges, tweeds, and other thick materials 
should be lined with jeannette. When choosing 
waist-lining, it is as well to remember that a 
thin material should have a thin lining, and a 
strong stuff a stout lining ; but endeavor to get 
the material for the dress and the lining about 
the same consistency. 

Always commence to stitch the seams in a 
dress bodice from the top down, and press open 
all seams, except those which join the back and 
side-forms together, unless the garment be made 
of thick material ; in that case lay the side-form 
seams open, and be sure to overcast, or bind 
with narrow ribbon, the edges of all seams in the 
bodice. 

Some dressmakers nick the edges with 
scissors ; this may save trouble, but it looks very 



DRESSMAKING. 53 

untidy, and is never done by a good dress- 
maker. 

If you wish the bodice to wear well, do not 
put steel into the whalebone casing, and re- 
member to reserve all whalebone taken out of 
the casings in your old dress bodices, and use it 
when re-making old garments. For a new dress 
purchase new whalebone (p. 26), and before it is 
put into the casings see that each end of the 
bone is rubbed down with a small file ; then 
make one end of a fine knitting-needle red hot, 
and with this make a small hole at each end of 
this whalebone. 

After you have inserted the whalebone into 
the casing, put in a few firm stitches through 
each of the holes made by the knitting-needle ; 
this will fix the bone in place, and keep it from 
shifting. 

When you work the buttonholes, use medium- 
sized twist for merino and other goods of that 
class. Small buttonholes on a dress bodice 
should not be placed more than i an inch apart. 
The best plan to get them even is to measure 
the distance between each one, and put in a pin 
or white tacking to mark the place for each 
buttonhole, and remember in all cases to finish 



54 DRESSMAKING. 

the buttonholes before sewing on the buttons 
(p. 26), and when you commence to sew them on 
to do the one nearest to the neck-band first. Fix 
the button in place with four firm stitches, then 
twist the thread four times round the shank of 
the button and the stitches togother. 

After you have done this, put your needle 
through to the wrong side of the bodice and 
fasten off with four firm stitches. 

When you wish the bodice to be fastened 
with hooks and eyes, for a washing dress, you 
will find it a good plan to put a row of machine 
stitching close to the edge of the hem at the 
side where the hooks are intended to be sewn 
on, and when the hooks are all fixed, tack a 
piece of ribbon or tape over the shanks, and hem 
it down on both sides without showing the 
stitches on the right side of the bodice. 

Now sew the eyes close to the edge of the 
hem, at the opposite side of the bodice, allowing 
just sufficient of the eye to be seen on the right 
side to admit of the hook being passed through 
when you fasten the bodice. After the eyes are 
all fixed, take a strip of the material to match 
the dress, about i^ inches wide, cut on the 
straight way, and the length of the front of the 



DRFSSMAKING. 5^ 

bodice where the eyes are fixed ; tack a piece o 
book muslin or leno on the wrong side of this 
strip, then turn over, and tack down about ^ 
of an inch of the material on to the muslin. 
Now place the right side of the strip just over 
the eyes on the inside of the bodice, and allow i 
inch with the part where the i inch was turned 
over to project beyond the line where the eyes 
are fixed ; then tack the strip in place, and with 
a firm back stitch sew down the hem where the 
eyes come on to the strip, taking the stitches 
right through to the muslin or leno. Next line 
the strip with a piece of ribbon about i^ inches 
wide (if a washing dress a strip of lining will do), 
and be particular to finish this part of the bodice 
neatly, and to hide all turnings with the ribbon 
lining. If you prefer the bodice to fasten up the 
back, you must allow turnings on the centre 
seam at the back, same as you would do for a 
bodice fastened in front. After all seams, but 
the one at the centre of the back, are joined, 
pressed open, etc., work the buttonholes on the 
right hand side of the bodice, sew the buttons 
on the left hand side, and finish in the same way 
as for bodice fastened in front. When piping 
the armholes of a dress bodice, avoid stretchinof 



56 DRESSMAKING. 

either the pipinn^-cord orarmhole, and commence 
to tack the strip of cording on the armhole 
between the back and front under-arm seams, 
and when you finish off, do not cross the ends of 
the piping-cord ; it is a much better plan to 
turn i of an inch of one end of the strip of 
cording to the inside, and slip the other end 
within this, and put a few firm stitches to keep 
the cord from shifting. 

Always avoid a seam in the back at the centre 
of a basque, made in the pleated, fan, or postilion 
style, and when you arrange the pleats of the 
basque, tack each one neatly down to keep it in 
place. The tackings will not only keep the 
pleats in position, but will cause them to keep 
the fold after they are drawn out. The e(.]ge of 
basques require to be lined with sarsnet, or thin 
silk same colour as the dress material. The 
sarsnet should be cut to the shape. First tack a 
cross-cut strip of leno round the bottom of the 
basque, now cut the sarsnet to shape, or on the 
cross, about i^ inches wide, line with the cross 
strip as follows. 

Having cut the number of strips for the length 
required, join, and lay the seams open with your 
forefinger, then place the right side of the strip 



DRESSMAKING. 57 

of silk on to the right side of the bodice at the 
edge of the basque, and run the two together ^ 
of an inch from the edge, keeping the basque 
uppermost, and the edge a little tight on the 
strip of silk. When you have finished running 
the two together, turn the silk over to the inside 
of the bodice, and tack it neatly round the edge, 
so that no part of the silk will show on the 
outside. Then turn in the raw edge and hem it 
down ; be careful not to show the stitches on 
right side of the basque. Another way : — first 
tack a cross strip of fine leno round the bottom 
of the basque, then turn ^ of an inch over on to 
the leno, and herring bone both leno and material 
down on to the lining of the bodice. Next take 
a strip of sarsnet, turn in one edge and tack it 
close round the bottom, so as not to show on 
right side of basque. When the silk is all tacked 
on, hem or sew it down with slip stitches, then 
tack the opposite side, and hem it neatly down 
on to the lining. 

All edges of untrimmed garments, such as 
polonaises, tunics, etc., should be lined with 
sarsnet : sometimes they are finished with a hem 
turned on to the wrong side, and slip-stitched or 
run along with the sewing machine. 



58 DRESSMAKING. 

When trimming a bodice, attention should be 
paid to the style of the lady. If the dress be for 
a tall, slender figure, trim the bodice in some neat 
fashion across the chest, make the basque full 
at the back, and trim the sleeves at the wrist, 
and ( if in fashion ) at the top with a puff or some 
other style of trimming. 

The skirt for a tall lady should be fully 
trimmed with drapery, etc. For a short figure the 
trimmings should be put on the dress length- 
ways, viz., from shoulder to waist, and the sleeves 
trimmed up from the wrist, or from the top of 
the sleeve down ( according to fashion ), or they 
can be worn without trimming. Short ladies 
should never wear deep flounces, or too many 
small ones ; all trimmings should be put on the 
skirt lengthways, to correspond with the bodice. 
Do not make the skirt too full at the back ; let 
the drapery be neat, and not too much puffed 
up, nor too high up on the skirt. 

Medium-sized ladies can wear almost any 
style of dress, but should be careful not to wear 
a skirt with too much drapery at the back ; 
always let this part of the costume be arranged 
according to the figure of the wearer. 



DRESSMAKING. 59 



REMARKS ON SLEEVES. 

In cutting sleeves, whether short or long, be 
careful to see that the part which comes from 
the inside seam on aline with the highest part 
which fits at the top of the shoulders, be cut on 
the cross. This applies to both material and 
lining, and no sleeve will set in its right position 
unless this is attended to. And be sure that 
you just cut out the right amount at the armpit ; 
it is a good plan to measure a comfortable-fitting 
sleeve in one of your dresses in use. You will 
then be able to judge how much it will be 
necessary to cut out. The top of the upper half 
of a sleeve is always much rounded, and it is the 
highest part of this rounded shape that must 
come to the highest part of the shoulder ; by 
attending to this, the inner seam will come in its 
right place. 

Always cut dress sleeves above the elbow, on 
the straight way of the material, so that the bias 
will come at the wrist. The under part of a 
dress sleeve, as well as the upper part, always 
looks best when cut on the straight way of the 
material above the elbow. For this reason, 



60 DRESSMAKING. 

many kinds of material sold for dresses will not 
bear the same strain as the cloth supplied for 
garments, such as out-door jackets, etc. Another 
reason why the under part of a dress sleeve should 
be cut on the straight above the elbow, is that 
broad and narrow stripes and check patterns do 
not look well, if the stripe or check on the outer 
seam of the under half docs not correspond with 
that on the upper half of the sleeve. 

Sometimes it is better to cut the sleeves with- 
out the outer seam above the elbow. In all 
cases try to have the threads of the lining to 
run in the same direction as those of the 
material ; that is, if one is cut on the straight 
or cross, the other, if possible, must be cut to 
match. 

When making sleeves with lengthway puffs, 
allow, if the sleeve measures 22 or 24 inches at 
the outside seam, from 10 inches upwards for 
gathers, and about the same number of inches 
for the width round sleeve, as the puff will 
require to be set up, also allow 4 or 5 inches over 
the width at the wrist, according to the thick- 
ness of the material. 

Thin tissues, such as tulle, net, gauze, grena- 
dine, etc., require as much again as is allowed 



DRESSMAKING. 6 1 

for the length of the sleeve. When making up 
net sleeves in this style, it is best to make the 
puffs on a foundation of the same ; this applies 
to all transparent goods, unless you have a silk 
or satin foundation, which you wish to be seen 
through the puffs. 

Commence the lenglhway puffs with the first 
running from the shoulder to the elbow point, 
and the rest of the runnings will go down to the 
wrist. When you have finished all the runnings, 
pin and regulate each puff, making those at the 
top of the sleeve much larger than the puffs at 
the wrist. Some puffs are cut on the cross, and 
others on the straight. 

When making puffs to go round the sleeve 
from the top to the wrist, if the sleeve measures 
22 inches on the outside seam, and i6 inches on 
the inside, allow lo inches upwards for gathers 
at the top, and about 4 inches over the width at 
the wrist, and from 6 inches over the length of 
the sleeve, according to the numoer of puffs 
required ; the puffs at the top of the sleeve must 
be larger than those at the wrist. When net 
puffs are sewed on a foundation of the same, use 
silk ribbon for the waist-band (this also applies 
to other thin tissues). 



62 DRESSMAKING. 

If you wish to trim the sleeve round the top 
with a single puff (which is best cut on the cross, 
and gathered or pleated, small pleats always 
look much better than gathers, unless the 
material be very thick or thin), cut a strip to the 
width required for the puff, and as much again 
as the width round the top of the sleeve. Next 
pleat the top of the puff to the size of the arm- 
hole, in small kilt pleats, all turned one way, 
that is, from the front to the back seam in the 
sleeve. Then gather or pleat the bottom edge. 
If pleats, they must be in the opposite direction 
to those at the top of the puff. Now put a 
tacking mark round the sleeve to the depth 
from the top where you wish the puff to go, and 
lay the bottom edge of the puff with the right 
side of the material against the right side of the 
sleeve, and with the top part of the puff towards 
the wrist, pin the raw edge close by the tacking 
mark ; and, as you do this, regulate the fulness^ 
allowing very little to come at the under-part 
of the sleeve ; then run the puff firmly down close 
to the edge at the tacking mark on the sleeve, 
being particular to make the running stitches 
firm and regular ; having finished the running 
turn the top part of the puff which is lying 



DRESSMAKING. 6} 

towards the wrist over on to the top of the 
sleeve, and tack it in place. When a sleeve is 
to be trimmed at the wrist with a band of velvet, 
or rows of braid, it is best to leave the lining at 
the wrist undone, and line it after the trimming 
is set on ; then the silk lining can be hemmed 
down and so hide all stitches. 

Cuffs are always the better for being lined 
with book muslin or leno, and made up and 
slip-stitched on to the sleeve. When sewing the 
cuff on, allow it to go just beyoijd the edge of 
the sleeve, remembering always to completely 
finish the sleeve ready for stitching into tbe 
armhole before trimmino: the wrist. 



HOW TO MAKE UP A VELVET CUFF. 

First cut the cuff out in muslin or leno, and 
make it to fit the wrist of the sleeve you intend to 
trim ; allow |- an inch for turnings all round, then 
cut the velvet to match, and be sure to see that 
the nap of the velvet is in the right direction. 
Now tack the velvet on to the muslin or leno. 
When this is done turn ^ an inch at the top and 
bottom edges of the cuff over on to the muslin, 
and hem it down with herrinjj-bone stitches. 



64 DRESSMAKIXG. 

Line the inside of the cuff with sarsnet or thin 
but firm silk; then close the seam on the inside 
with a neat back stitch, and hem the silk lining 
over the seam to hide all turnings. Now place 
the cuff on the wrist, and allow it to go about ^ 
inch beyond the edge of the sleeve. Before you 
slip stitch the cuff upon the wrist, be careful to 
see that the join on the cuff is about i inch to 
the inside of the inner seam of the sleeve. 

When the sleeve is to be trimmed with 3 or 
more rows of braid at the wrist, it is best to 
leave 4 or 5 inches of the inner seam undone; in 
this way you will be able to join the braid 
neatly with the inner seam when you close 
it up. 

REMARKS ON SKIRTS. 

In cutting a trained skirt, allow one breadth for 
the front, with a second breadth trom 3 to 5 inches 
longer than the front width, and cut into two gores, 
that is, one to either side of the front breadth. 
These gores must be sloped off to the second 
gores, which will measure from 4 to 6 inches 
longer than the first, and with the full width of the 
material at the bottom,sloping up to about 7 inches 
at the top (according to the figure of the wearer). 



DRESSMAKING. 65 

If the dress be for a medium-sized lady, and the 
goods measure from 27 to 32 inches wide, allow 
one breadth for the back ; this breadth should 
be four inches or more longer than the second 
gore, according to the length required for the 
train (but if the dress be for a stout figure, allow 
two or more breadths for the back). The 
breadth for the centre of the back must be cut 
in a rounded shape at the bottom, to meet the 
sloped parts of the second gore. 

When the material has a right and a wrong 
•side, or an up and a down pattern, the gores for 
a skirt must be cut one beyond the other ; viz. 
cut the front breadth first, then one gore for the 
right side of the front breadth ; next lay this 
gore with the right side face on to the right side 
of the material, and with the selvage edges to 
meet, cut out the gore for the left side. When 
you have cut the first two gores, cut the second 
two in the same way, being particular to see 
that each piece is cut with the pattern running 
all in one direction (this applies to velvet and 
other materials with a raised pile, and to all 
goods with figured patterns running in one 
direction). The seams of a velvet or other skirt 
having a raised pile, should be run with a light 



66 DRESSMAKING. 

easy stitch, so that the pile will not" appear 
pressed down. These skirts should be lined 
throughout with silk, sateen, or victoria lawn, 
and turned up round the bottom with a strip of 
ribbon or fine alpaca. 

When no improver is to be worn with a walk- 
ing skirt, the back should not measure more than 
from I to li inches longer than the front. Slip 
skirts for evening wear are made of silk, satin, 
muslin, sateen, etc., same color as the material 
for the costume. The slip skirt should measure 
from ^ to f of an inch shorter than the outer 
skirt, unless the edge is intended to be seen below 
the upper* skirt; in that case, the slip petticoat 
must be cut long enough to admit of being seen 
below the outer skirt. 

Always cut the slip petticoat when cutting 
the outer skirt. If the slip petticoat is to be 
trimmed with kilting, cut the outer skirt accord- 
ingly. Should you desire a skirt set out round 
the bottom, line the strip of alpaca (with which 
you intend lining the bottom of the skirt) 
with a strip of stout muslin cut on the cross, 
which must be tacked on to the wrong side of 
the alpaca ; cut the muslin one inch deeper 
than the alpaca. When the strips of muslin are 



DRESSMAKING. 6/ 

all cut (but before being shaped to fit the bottom 
of the skirt), turn up li inches at one edge of 
the muslin, so that the raw edge will come 
next to the alpaca, and prevent the edge of the 
muslin cutting the material at the bottom of the 
skirt while in use. Next shape and tack the 
muslin on to the alpaca, which will now be i 
of an inch over the muslin at the top ; turn this 
^ of an inch over on to the muslin and tack it 
down. The lining is now ready to fit round the 
bottom of the skirt. 



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